CosMedix + Collagen Induction Dermal Needling Therapy

The development of new and innovative technology is an industry norm. The advancements in the last fifteen years have created a new standard that could never have existed unless scientific research had been done to investigate the application of medical devices and medicines for cosmetic purposes. One in particular, the use of human growth factors harvested from stem cells, was originally applied for the treatment of complex wounds and was made famous for cosmetic purposes when Kim Kardashians shared a “selfie” immediately post “Vampire Facial. ”

The tried and tested treatment recommendations that are given today are developed through a degree of trial and error.  From the very early stages until the final advanced level of effectiveness are realised.

It is no surprise that the industry is in a constant state of development. Just like the advancements made in mobile phones and smart devices, today’s technology is often gone by tomorrow!

In the drive to avoid premature aging, treat blemishes and banish discoloration, the array of devices on the market vary enormously in cost and effectiveness. Striking the balance between the desire for results and budget can mean the latest gadget isn’t a realistic option or in time it becomes apparent though an expensive piece of kit, the claims may talk the talk but do not necessarily deliver on long-term expectations. Unfortunately, in some cases expensive and often very powerful devices, applied incorrectly can lead to causing more harm than good.

The frontier on which Medico Beauty evolves and adopts new treatments is determined by two factors. The scientific evidence displayed, long-term experience of treatment outcome, results and the treatment experience. Optimising the treatment outcome with a ‘less is so much more’ approach, minimizing the discomfort and downtime experienced post treatment.  Patients and clients enjoy all the benefits without any of the side effects such as decreasing healthy skin function and adequate recovery.

Promoting a common sense option is at times seen as a lot less sexy than the latest magic wand device. Our teams commitment to using the unique treatment protocols that deliver results is rock solid because we know the changes made are noticeable, measurable and in the last fifteen years the correct cosmetic chemistry has never let us down!

We have always been passionate about Chirally Correct ingredients and strongly believe in the ability of purified actives to effectively communicate and change the skin, without the need for burning and causing discomfort.

All research today demonstrates that results are directly linked to the ability for actives to penetrate the skin barrier to the deeper layers of skin, where they have the ability for the most change by targeting the living layer of the skin.

We already have access to the best ingredients available in skincare and CosMedix & Results Rx achieves outstanding results on their own. 

But did you know that only 2-7% of product applied topically actually penetrates the skin barrier?

Just imagine how much better the results would be if we could somehow increase the product penetration and therefore increase availability of the CosMedix active ingredients in the skin!

We have been busy designing a protocol that combines CosMedix Chiral ingredients with dermal needling / collagen induction therapy.

Dermal needling increases product penetration up to 87%. That's an increase of around 4000%!

Because CosMedix formulas use Chirally Correct ingredients that have been purified on a molecular level, with sophisticated encapsulation delivery systems that are free-from irritants and synthetic ingredients, makes it the perfect range to combine with dermal needling. By introducing micro-channels into the skin, you are creating a direct route to the dermis but there are many ingredients that wouldn't be deemed safe to use with needling.

At Medico Beauty we strongly believe that all skin care professionals should receive certified training to carry out any form of skin treatment. That's why we have teamed up with MARSTE Academy as our recommended training provider, who provide BABTAC accredited certified training for dermal needling. The Medico Beauty approach to dermal needling is similar to our ethos with peels. Using a series of non-tramatic treatments that work with the skin to stimulate renewal but with no downtime or irritation. This is why the partnership with MARSTE Academy was the obvious choice, because the methods used during their bespoke dermal needling training protocol known as 'Dermagen', supports both companies belief in a 'less is more', non-traumatic approach and that you do not need to annihilate the skin to get great results.

Only this approach will teach the technique needed to ensure minimum discomfort and how to safely combine CosMedix actives with dermal needling. 

Dermagen - The Facts

1. Dermal Needling, Micro-Needling, Collagen Induction Therapy.... The treatment goes by many names but essentially it involves creating micro-channels in to the dermis with microscopic needles.
2. The effects from dermal needling are two fold. Firstly the immediate effect from creating micro-channels allows for superior product penetration, with an increase of up to 4000%. This means delivery of actives to the dermis that would otherwise be blocked.
3. The long term effects by causing micro-injury to the skin, you trigger the wound healing cascade, increases growth factor production and stimulating collagen & elastin synthesis. The results from which can continue for up to 1 year after the last treatment. There is also no limit to how many treatments you can have, providing you leave long enough between appointments.

Dermal needling works similarly to a Fraxel laser, that fractionally wounds the skin, but without the thermal heat involved. This means skin needling is safe for all Fitzpatrick types. Because skin needling works fractionally, it also preserves the integrity of the epidermis so there is no downtime. In fact the channels start to close within 10-15 minutes and within a matter of a few hours, have completely healed. 

Dermagen – The Advanced Dermal Needling Method

However, there are many techniques, myths and misconceptions around the treatment. For example, what size needle length is needed? Is pinpoint bleeding a good or a bad thing? What effects numbing cream has on the healing process?

To truly understand dermal needling and its effects, you must first understand the phases involved in wound healing and the elements needed in collagen synthesis. For example, how to achieve strong and healthy Type 1 collagen, instead of the weaker Type 3 collagen associated with scar tissue. The growth factors involved and how to stimulate these? What key nutrients to feed the skin and when in order to provide the optimum environment to renew itself?

For example, we only believe in using a needle length of 0.5mm for skin rejuvenation. This is proven to be the minimum depth needed to trigger wound healing and growth factor production. However go any deeper and you are causing unnecessary and excessive trauma and downtime, with increased risk of infection BUT with no greater result. In fact studies have shown that you get the same result whether you use a 1mm or a 3mm. Dr Lance Setterfield who is considered a guru within the field of dermal needling carried out his own study and found that a 0.5mm produced the best results in the shortest time compared to using a 2mm.

Remember, injury to the skin itself is only part of the story. The real result comes from the skin's ability to recover from injury.

There are also multiple benefits of taking a non-traumatic approach that include not having to use a topical aesthetic, which has a negative impact on the nerve ends within the skin. It's also a less uncomfortable for the client, there is no downtime involved, the time between treatments is reduced and as the studies have shown, you get a better result overall.

[caption id="attachment_4211" align="aligncenter" width="600"] Clinical Case study by Dr Lance Setterfield demonstrating results using 0.5mm. Image source: dermal integrity[/caption]  

How to become a BABTAC Qualified Practitioner in Dermagen

If you are interested in registering for an upcoming workshop to learn the Medico Beauty approach to combining CosMedix with Collagen Induction Therapy and becoming BABTAC certified through the MARSTE Academy, please email andy.millward@medicobeauty.com.